Hi! Welcome to the fourth issue of The Vegan Gazette.

As it is a ritual to make a wishlist for the upcoming year, here is a very short version of mine that I would like to accomplish before Veganuary ends: Master a lion’s mane recipe—maybe something from Jacob King. Uncover a Paris-style croissant in London; so far, Okja is in the lead. Find a plus one to go to The Holy Carrot in Notting Hill—if you’re the one, please contact me. Figure out a homemade tiramisu, something like the one I had at We Are Vegan Everything in Hackney. And finally, take a trip to Japan—like almost everyone around me.

The Vegan: Esen, a vegan registered dietitian.
The Place: Larzijan, regenerating Dalston’s food scene.
The Latest News: A mushroom-based steak, made from mycelium, the root-like structure of fungus.
The Destination: Villa Vegana, where boquerones are made from king oyster mushrooms.
The Plate: Three Sunday roasts at The Spread Eagle.

Check out our previous issues here

Hope 2025 brings laughter. 

Hazal

Let’s Meet: Esen Boyacıgiller

The cognitive dissonance between being an animal lover and eating them is impossible for me to understand.

Playing: ‘Messy’ by Lola Young

My journey into veganism started with a silly, popular book called Skinny Bitch by Rory Freedman and Kim Barnouin. Apparently, Victoria Beckham read it and loved it. What was great about that book was that it wasn’t a ‘vegan book’ but was actually a diet book (I’m a dietitian and read a lot of diet books) with a secret vegan propaganda. It had a chapter about how disgusting the dairy industry is; after reading that I went vegan overnight. I remember my first vegan meal: a slice of toast with tomatoes, olive oil, and salt. Still a favorite!

People go vegan for all sorts of reasons, but I’ve noticed that if your reason isn’t paramount to who you are, it’s easy to become un-vegan. All these plant-based influencers who go un-vegan, or people like Lizzo were never really vegan. Veganism at its core is about recognizing that animals should not be used for our consumption or believing in not pillaging the earth and its resources. I’m an ethical vegan. I don’t condone using animals as human food supply. I don’t see any difference between eating dogs, pigs, cats, or cows. The cognitive dissonance between being an animal lover and eating them is impossible for me to understand. Once you see the cruelty involved in factory farms, it’s hard to ignore.

As a registered dietitian, I love that a vegan diet can be very health-promoting. My philosophy as a dietitian has always been ‘add don’t subtract’. It’s called the ‘crowding out’ method. We add legumes, fruits, veggies, nuts, seeds, and grains. Americans are obsessed with protein, which is super important, but we're already getting enough of it. Actually, studies suggest that 90% of Americans do not get enough fiber, which is my favorite nutrient. Fiber is found only in plant foods (not in animal products); it keeps you full, helps you have normal bowel movements, is great for your gut microbiome, and so much more. 

Twenty years ago, veganism was naturally a super-healthy diet because vegan cheese, meat, dessert, and butter substitutes didn’t exist. The joke is that veganism was mostly beans and rice. That’s why today I don’t necessarily propose a vegan diet is a healthy one unless it’s consumed consciously. The proliferation of vegan products has made it possible for a vegan diet to be just as unhealthy as an omnivorous one if it consists mostly of processed foods. There is so much misinformation out there—it drives me crazy. Seed oils! Lectins! Etc. When it comes down to it, all sensible dietitians will agree on one thing: whether you are an omnivore, vegan, pescatarian, make sure your plate is mostly whole unprocessed foods: vegetables, fruits, nuts, grains and seeds.

I’d like to address people who say, ‘Oh, why are you trying to make vegan foods that look like animal foods?’ We didn’t stop eating meat because we didn’t like the taste; we stopped due to the cruelty. I LOVE the fact that alternatives to meat, milk, and eggs exist. I call these ‘transition foods.’ They make life easier for people who want to go vegan. Don’t misunderstand—these are not healthy foods, but they are better for the animal welfare. If these foods help you realize that vegan foods can be super tasty, that’s wonderful for the cause. Do you know how many people can’t tell the difference between a cow burger and an ‘Impossible Burger’ when it's sandwiched between a bun with cheese, tomato, and pickle? That’s pretty cool if you ask me.

I have been mostly vegan for 13 years but have gone through periods of eating cheese on and off. Vegan cheese used to be awful—plasticky, tasteless, and made with bad ingredients. Today, we have Miyoko’s cheeses (the queen of vegan cheese), Kite Hill (non-dairy cream cheese), La Fauxmagerie in London, to name a few that I like. These are mostly made from natural ingredients like nuts. They are health-promoting AND delicious. Being able to go into a bagel shop in NYC and get delicious vegan cream cheese is awesome. I believe veganism is the most ethical way to live, but I want people to know that even being 90% vegan is better than not being vegan at all. Start by eating vegan one day a week, then do two. See how you feel. Educate yourself, and you may never want to go back. We have to have empathy because change is hard.

Finally, I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that if you choose to adopt a vegan diet, you need to do a little research. I hear about people who eat only fries, pasta and Oreos and feel terrible. Make sure to get enough plant protein and you must supplement with B12, which is an essential vitamin and not found easily in a vegan diet. 

Pulse Check

I’m a regular in London and New York, but I’m from Istanbul.

I have recently found inspiration from: I spend a lot of time in East London, inspired by the fashion, the creativity at vegan restaurants, and the openness to learning. I'm also inspired by my sister Belkıs, who owns Istanbul's best (in my biased opinion) vegan restaurant, Bi Nevi Deli, and has been innovating for over 10 years. Animal activists like Earthling Ed and Michelin star chefs like Alexis Gauthier, who went vegan in 2016 and removed all animal products from his restaurant menus entirely in 2021 after learning about animal cruelty, inspire me too. Lastly, I'm moved by those fighting for women's rights and abortion rights in America.

The vegan product/dish/recipe in cannot live without: When I am in Turkey, I cannot live without my sister’s Cashew Cream (the best non-dairy cheese in Istanbul, made with natural ingredients), Upper Crust pizza (they have a collab with Bi Nevi) and Pelin’s Ekmek. When in London, I am obsessed with Manilife peanut butter and eat at Mildred’s constantly. And of course I adhere to the ‘nootch on everything’ mantra. Vegans lovingly refer to nutritional yeast, an inactive yeast that tastes cheesy, that is high in protein, low in calories and high in B12- an essential micronutrient that must be supplemented on a vegan diet- as ‘nootch’. It goes with everything and I use it a lot. 

My favorite vegan hangout: Bi Nevi Deli in Istanbul and ‘We Are Vegan Everything’ (WAVE) in Hackney, which is cozy, has outdoor seating, and serves the best vegan brunch—especially their Vegan Benedict.

My favorite hangout to be by myself: My home, of course! I’m a Taurus and love relaxing with my cat, Lenny, who was rescued from the Bronx, NYC. He’s a constant reminder of why I’m vegan.

When I want to grab something vegan on the go, I go to: Vegan on the go usually means a nut bar, banana, or almonds, which you can find at any bodega or market. I love vegan pastries and was obsessed with Erin McKenna’s Bakery in NYC’s Lower East Side.

After midnight you can find me: SLEEPING! 

The book/film/talk/podcast that made me vegan: So many! What’s cool is that there’s a documentary for every reason you might go vegan. Gamechangers for athletes, Seaspiracy, I Could Never Go Vegan, and Earthlings for ethical vegans, Forks Over Knives and What The Health for the health-freaks. Books like Jonathan Safran Foer’s Eating Animals and Diet for a New America, and Rich Roll’s podcast also help. I follow inspiring vegan influencers/chefs like Sam Turnbull, Nisha Vora, Yeliz Utku (a longtime vegan in Istanbul), and Ferhan Talib. But beyond all this, what helped me most was that, when I went vegan, I was learning how to cook. Finding exquisite vegan recipe websites made it easier and fun. You have to learn to cook when you go vegan or you’ll be stuck with less healthy options. Isa Chandra Moskowitz (author of 10+ cookbooks), Chloe Coscarelli, and Angela Liddon were some of my original favorites. Once you start making delicious, healthy recipes, you realize the lifestyle is sustainable.

The thing that surprises me as a vegan: How easy it is to be vegan in 2024 yet we still face so much judgment, resistance, and ridicule. You ask why vegans seem so ‘crazy’ and ‘angry’? Because we live in a world that constantly shows us how little it values animals and their right to live.

A fellow vegan must meet: Having at least one vegan friend is so important! You can feel so alone in this journey. It’ll make you crazy, trying to understand how you can be the only one around you making this loving choice. I went to dinner a few months back with eight friends, all of whom were eating steak; me the lonely vegan! I made a new friend recently, Rohini, a fellow plant-based nutritionist, which has been the best because we chat and try new vegan restaurants together all the time.

A vegan vacation I would like to recommend: My sister and I have always wanted to attend Rich Roll’s Italy retreat. He’s the author of Finding Ultra, has a podcast, and has been a huge inspiration to me, even a mentor, for years.

Discover more of Esen’s journey here

Dalston stew regeneration

Words by: Hazal Yılmaz

I’ve been an inhabitant of London for eight years, and I can easily declare that I’ve witnessed the transformation of Dalston. At first, it was late-night hangouts we queued for, the snooker club Efes, where we bumped into well-known and upcoming artists at 3 in the morning, and, of course, Turkish dürüm and lentil soup spots that stayed open for late-night snackers. Dalston has always played a crucial role in London’s night and music scene. Before my time, in the 1960s and 1970s, it was community gathering spots like Four Aces, launched by Newton Dunbar, that contributed to the history of London’s music scene. It was pivotal in the evolution of Afro-Caribbean music including reggae, roots, soul, and R&B. Over the years, its clientele included legends such as Bob Marley, Stevie Wonder, and Jimmy Cliff. In the early 1990s, Four Aces became Club Labrynth, founded by Joe Wieczorek, a rave scene venue featuring acid house, where The Prodigy made their first live public appearance. Despite an active campaign to save the building, it was demolished in 2007 and replaced by part of the Dalston Junction Overground line project, followed by new tower-style buildings—marking yet another instance of gentrification. Unfortunately, all major cities suffer from it as areas become more populated and desirable for metropolitans.

But for the purpose of this article, and with the belief that a multicultural Dalston still thrives, I’m going to get off at the overground—now Windrush Lane—at Dalston Junction, grab a takeaway coffee from All Press, and sit for a couple of minutes in a sliver of sunlight to soak up some vitamin D. I’ll walk in the direction of Hoxton to check if Andu Ethiopian Vegan Cafe is still around and serving two of my favorite things: steamed collard greens —Gomen, and mild split peas comfort food—Shiro. I’ll make sure The Haggerston is still active and hosting Sunday jazz sessions, then walk through De Beauvoir Rose Garden before turning towards The Scolt Head and heading in the direction of Gillett Square—with the purpose of checking out Larzijan Uyghur Vegan Cuisine.

The Uyghurs, a Turkic ethnic group, are known for a cuisine centered around ingredients like roasted mutton and beef. So, how would you veganize it? I ask the chef and owner, Zarife, in Turkish, at which point we realize we speak the same mother tongue. She begins telling her story while setting up a table for two at the entrance, just before she starts preparing the Fried Tugur Dumplings. The earliest chapter of her journey takes us to when she ran a restaurant in Topkapı, within the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality quarters. As the city and her own life path transformed, she eventually found her way to London, where she removed all animal products from the menu and created these clean, plant-based wonders we’re about to taste. We soon learn (hopefully before spring 2025) that she is going to take over a couple of tables at Vortex Jazz Club’s floors, as this shed is no longer sufficient for her future vision. I mentally note everything and tell her that I'll return later to learn more of her story. The dumplings arrive at our table, joined by the veg stew. We dig in. Hand-rolled dough wraps around the generous filling of tofu and vegetables. The veg stew harbors seasonal ingredients and aromatic spices that we sense through retro-nasal olfaction. Larzijan, thank you for once again making me believe that Dalston, despite all the urban transformation, can still generate local surprises, true to its essence.

A must-have: Although I didn’t try it yet due to over-satisfaction and a full stomach, it’s made the list for next time: Goshnan / Uyghur Pie with minced tofu, onion, spring onion, green and red peppers, and spinach.

My favorite: The broth from the veg stew, especially the micro mushrooms floating on the surface.

Bonus: A chef-to-table experience and a chat with Zarife, accompanied by "wooows" and "yum!"

Address: 79b Kingsland High St, London E8 2PB

Villa Vegana where boquerones are made from king oyster mushroom

Why go? Villa Vegana is one of Europe’s first 100% vegan hotels. It offers plant-based, mostly ecological food sourced from its own permaculture garden, and uses sustainable, vegan cleaning products as well as cruelty-free cosmetics. The hotel is located in a conservation area, surrounded by olive, almond, lemon, and orange trees, and is home to grazing animals like sheep, pigs, donkeys, and horses.

Can't miss: Tiramisu, vegan fish fillet made from parsnips, vegan pickled herring made from eggplants, and ahi tuna poke made from watermelon!

Where? Cami d´es Pedregar, km 2, 2, 07313 Selva, Illes Balears, Spain