Hi! Welcome to the second issue of The Vegan Gazette.

I was a writer, then a traveler, then a vegan—hence, a vegan travel writer. Visiting new countries, cities, and neighborhoods, the search for “the place to work, eat, dance, or chat with locals” grew more challenging as my priorities evolved. I wasn’t just seeking a decent breakfast spot but one offering something vegan. In the early days, it was avocado toast and almond lattes, sparking debates about the environmental ethics of consuming such imports.

Later came tofu scrambles and coffee with soy milk, raising new concerns—Is soy healthy? Spoiler alert: It is! Now in London, where crispy croissants, bagels with vegan chive spread, rosemary-flavored sausages, and glazed tofu steaks are plentiful, these questions seem almost irrelevant yet remain crucial. Because once you go vegan, there’s no return to the land of “never mind.” So let’s keep asking, debating, and exploring until we find our answers—apathy is never the way forward.

Here’s a sneak peek at our second issue before you dive in:

The Vegan: Emel, the founder of Greens & Others, Manchester’s first plant-based cookery school.
The Place: Where caring is the last dumpling standing in the middle of the tray.
The Latest News: Some good books published in 2024 that will make you want to cook vegan.
The Destination: In the heart of San Gimignano: Vegan Agrivilla I Pini.
The Plate: One of the best bagels in London, right on Shacklewell Lane.

If you’re just joining us, here’s a link to our first ever issue.

Enjoy!

Hazal

Let’s Meet: Emel Ernalbant

I believe every neighbourhood should have a plant-based community kitchen. We didn’t have one here, so I built one.

Playing: Roy, IDLES

I was born in Istanbul. After going to university in Edirne, a place that reminds me a bit of Manchester, where I live now, I returned to Istanbul and started doing photo shoots for magazines. Back then, travel was my main priority. I was a travel photographer. One day, I was assigned a shoot in Mardin, which ended up being one of the first turning points in my life, though I didn’t know it at the time. I was 30 years old when I met my current partner and decided to settle there. Mardin is a multicultural city right on the Syrian border, where Armenians, Kurds, Arabs, and Syriacs—many different religions, languages, races, and cuisines—live together. In Mardin, I had a vegan friend named Efrin, who taught architecture at Artuklu University. You should talk to her too. Efrin made us question everything we ate, drank, and read. I’ve always been someone who chose leek or chard over meat and had a problem with drinking fresh cow’s milk during summers spent in Tirebolu. So, we weren’t cooking much meat at home anyway, but thanks to her, we started having deeper conversations. When she explained how dairy products and cheese are made, and how cows are inseminated and separated from their babies, the argument “You don’t kill animals, but you’re still violating them” really struck me.

Very quickly, we became a vegan household. In Mardin, this wasn’t a common thing, so we started making our own lahmacun and pide with green lentils instead of meat and sending them to the bakeries with stone ovens, like the locals did. People thought we were Syriacs, who traditionally fast for a month and eat vegan food. Everywhere we went outside, we were on a mission to find out whether they used butter or bone broth in their soup. If you didn’t ask, you’d be in trouble because it was definitely in. Around this time, we were fostering a child, Fehet. We’d send him off to school after making sure he brought back the banana peels from the lunch so we could use them for compost. I was also teaching darkroom classes at Sirkhane. After I became vegan, I had to quit because film contains gelatin, a protein derived from animal parts. These were the kinds of actions I was taking because veganism doesn’t just make you question what’s on your plate; it makes you question everything in life, one by one.

I became pregnant, and at the same time the lifestyle and the fauna around us in Turkey were slowly changing. The idea of moving to London, where I had worked as an au pair during my university years, quickly turned into a decision. My son, Aki, was born in London. After his birth, I was feeling isolated, I wanted to get back into my rhythm and start creating again. So, I began searching online for things I could do with food and photography in the area where I was living. That's when I came accross Made in Hackney, the vegan community cookery school. I started volunteering there as a photographer, eventually began helping in the kitchen. As my personal history unfolded—my childhood in Tirebolu, picking hazelnuts, and my memories from Mardin—In addition to taking photos, I began teaching masterclasses. That’s what I had been looking for and missed—a community, a sense of togetherness. It didn’t matter who was at the table. We were surrounded by a lovely group of people from all around the world, cooking, exchanging ideas, dancing, laughing, and sharing a meal together at the end of each event. In my mind, I felt far from my blood relatives, but I realized that if I connected with my community through food, I wouldn’t feel alone or sad.

Meanwhile, Aki grew up, and relocating every five years seems to be in my DNA. We had friends living in Manchester who kept urging us to come, so here we are again, packing up and moving. I believe that the further north you go on this island, the warmer the people become. Even though it’s incredibly cold, they’re so warm-hearted. When I moved to Manchester, I started working at a cooperative called Unicorn two days a week. I think it’s really important to work at places like this. You get to see how products come in and learn what goes on behind the scenes in markets, shops, and restaurants. Of course, I’m one of the few vegans there. But being vegan is a good conversation starter. Can we be environmentally friendly without being vegan?

At the same time, Made in Hackney announced they were setting up Global Plant Kitchens, a platform to offer workshops for anyone who wanted to start a community cooking school. I joined and learned how to structure the workplace and how to apply for funding, which is a fundamental challenge when creating sustainable social platforms. Pretty quickly, with the funds I was granted, Greens & Others was set up. We call it a "plant-based" cookery school because, unfortunately, there are still big stigmas surrounding veganism. At Greens & Others, we teach people how to make mayo from aquafaba, how to make omelets with chickpea flour and fresh herbs, and of course, how to make lentil köfte and even vegan baklava, homage to my roots. Right now, we’re holding our courses in school cafeterias, but we really need a proper space—a vegan kitchen. Just like how I can’t stand the smell of cigarettes after eight years of not smoking, I’m also immediately disturbed by the smell of eggs in cups or meat products that have been cooked in the kitchen before our arrival.

I think every neighborhood needs a school like this, and my goal is to expand and localize it. As I watch Aki grow up, I realize how Americanized some habits have become in schools and families. At kids' birthday parties, there are chicken nuggets and chips; sugar is becoming a common consumption item. Aki's friends, when they come over, ask for toast, but they don't want it to be vegan. This is a concrete example of the negativity surrounding veganism. But they love the toast I make with Flora and Marmite. Sometimes they eat vegan sausage, sometimes they don’t. But I enjoy what I cook and start thinking about how I cook. Once you start thinking differently about dishes—how you can veganize things you used to enjoy—you become more connected to the world. You’re no longer just a consumer; you’re a thinker. You care about your plate, yourself, animals, and the environment. You begin thinking more deeply, rather than just filling your stomach with anything.

The 'V' word is very strong, and people often shut down immediately. I’m trying to engage with the community. Anyone who excites me, whether they’re vegan or not, is welcome in our kitchen. I live in my dream bubble here in Chorlton, and I believe every neighborhood should have a plant-based community kitchen. We didn’t have one here, so I built it and have been delighted to run free cooking classes for the Manchester community. Hopefully, we’ll secure a permanent space soon to establish our community food hub in Chorlton. At Greens & Others, we firmly believe that everyone deserves access to quality food as a basic human right, not merely a privilege. We aim to host free community cooking classes, paid masterclasses, pay-as-you-can lunches, and free meal services. We don’t need to spend a lot of money to feel good—many people simply can’t afford that. Instead, we need each other to truly thrive.

Pulse Check 

I am from Istanbul, but I live in Manchester these days.

After living in the UK for many years, I’ve only just discovered that putting crisps in your sandwich is an actual thing. However, I haven’t tried it yet.

The vegan product I cannot live without: Tofu. I mean, I can live without it, but it’s so much fun transforming it into different dishes. If you miss eggs, make scrambled tofu. Craving fish? Wrap tofu in seaweed and fry it. In the mood for döner? (a popular Middle Eastern-style seasoned meat dish) Grate the tofu, fry it with herbs, and wrap it in a tortilla with salad and sauces. Also, I recently discovered Lion's Mane mushrooms. I guess I can't live without mushrooms.

The latest news from the vegan world: I discovered that my favorite writer is vegan too—Ocean Vuong! What joyful news for me! 

My favorite vegan hangout: The Jane Eyre. 

When I want to grab something vegan on the go, I go to Lily’s for their bhajis and samosas, and when I'm looking for a quick chat, I head to Unicorn.

After midnight you can find me at the bed. I usually go to sleep around 9 p.m., I wake up at 5 p.m., after that I’m either in our living room writing and gazing at the garden or taking a cold-water dip at Sale Water Park.

A vegan adjacent spot I like to go with my non-vegan friends: The Beagle—for Nell’s pizza and nice drinks.

I can eat pain au chocolat at Ludo’s, our neighborhood grocery at Beech Road, everyday.

The thing that surprises me as a vegan: Magic water aquafaba. You can make mayo, mousse, meringues with it. 

I’m vegan but… There is no ‘but’ my dear.

A fellow vegan must meet: My best friend, nutritional therapist Linda North.

My favorite vegan city/neighborhood: Manchester, and specifically Chorlton, holds a special place in my heart. It's where I found my vegan grocery store, Unicorn, and met so many like-minded people. It takes me back to the days when I explored cities for travel magazines, discovering new places and staying in beautiful spots. Now, I’m living in one of those places. I’m surrounded by a diverse community—artists, parents, elderly people, and students—and supported not only by big chains but also by local businesses like Chorlton Bookshop, artisans, and numerous charity shops.

Discover more of Emel’s journey here

The Last Dumpling Standing

Words by: Hazal Yılmaz

We all need that place—that place that brings us together with joy piling up as plates arrive one after the other. The place where we pass dishes while exchanging stories about weeks, hours, or years spent apart; where caring is the last dumpling standing in the middle of the tray because everyone is waiting for the other to make a move. Lunch stretches into dinner, free from the ticking reminders of time; it feels like gathering around the kitchen table at home with a chosen family, at a chosen time. That place that vegans suggest and no one is opposed to because everyone already knows it’s home to one of the most unforgettable steamed vegetable dumplings, sizzling fried tofu in black bean sauce—wish I had a second stomach so I could eat more special fried rice kind of place. If it still doesn’t ring a bell, the place I’m talking about is Tofu Vegan.

Nestled in four locations—Spitalfields, Golders Green, Islington, and now at Charlotte Street, Fitzrovia—Tofu Vegan is on my most-wanted list for a couple of reasons. First, it’s open. Not just seven days a week, but from noon till closing, with hours that vary slightly by location; it’s a non-stop service*. 3 p.m. lunch? Check. 4:30 p.m. dinner? Yes. I just want to arrive around noon, start with dim sum, have a little writing/reading/conversing break, then have some stir-fried lotus root slices. Well, if you can keep the table for so long without hungry customers-to-be, sure.

Second, let me tell you about the sauces. The simple flavour of stir-fried water spinach, the spicy, garlicky tang of smashed cucumber, the delicate taste of wontons and the zesty kick of house-made silken tofu. If there were a simple soup-like dish made from any of these sauces, I would order one for the table. One for later.

Third: The special fried noodles, Sichuan style. The creator of Zhang Chao, who started Xi’an Impression with Guirong Wei shows the perfection in this “side dish”. It’s al dente. It’s packed with vegetables. It goes perfectly with smacked cucumber spicy garlicky sesame dressing. It’s the kind of dish you want first, in the middle, and even at the end of the day.

A must-have: Everyone goes for the mains; I’m more of a ‘give starters a chance’ kind of person. So that would be: Chick’n with celery in a chilli oil dressing.

My favorite: Like I didn’t talk about it enough: The special fried noodles, Sichuan style.

Word of mouth: Head Chef Mr. Kai and his team will be offering a special Christmas Eve tasting menu on 24 December in Islington—a home-away-from-home seven-course meal for £56 per person.

Heads up: You will want to leave some room for the desserts such as sweet potato rolls or pumpkin lantern.

Where: Spitalfields, Golders Green, Islington, and now at Charlotte Street, Fitzrovia.

* Golders Green is closed between 3:00 PM and 5:00 PM, Monday to Friday. Make sure to check the hours for this branch.

In the heart of San Gimignano: Vegan Agrivilla I Pini

Why go? A retreat from the everyday, where you can taste Vernaccia di San Gimignano, one of Italy’s finest white wines; enjoy a farm-to-table dining experience; visit the vineyard, olive grove, and veggie garden; and engage in discussions on sustainability. Practice yoga surrounded by 200-year-old olive trees.

Can't miss: The Edible Food Forest, where Vegan Agrivilla I Pini puts its philosophies into practice. Through natural and regenerative farming methods, they cultivate a rich variety of vegetables, fruits, and medicinal and culinary herbs to nourish both body and soul.

Where? Santa Margherita 37, 53037 San Gimignano, Tuscany