Where do you live? When I first moved to London I used to think this was such a shallow question, borderline offensive. Why would where I lived be important to someone I just met? Would they judge me or prefer me as a friend depending on the postcode I come from? Would my household become the party central or a nightcap station? While there were so many other questions to ask someone to get to know them, why wonder about the building where their stuff resides?

But after a couple of months living in London, I finally understood the sense of belonging that connected people through neighbourhoods. The everyday coffee shop you go to, the familiar people you sit across from, the shop owners you say hi to who know what would go into your basket, the postman who brings your letters. The conversation starters: “Have you eaten at that Italian restaurant, not the one on the high street but the other one, in the alley?” “Did you know the wine shop delivers at home and also organize monthly dinners with a private chef?” “The café just over there, they host a book club on Wednesdays.” Where I lived didn’t define me, but it helped others engage in conversations and sometimes led to dates, friendships, like-minded communities, fresh encounters, and gatherings. Where I lived was actually my village, and in it, I nested.

Oh, and it changed so often, where I lived. I travelled within London. At the beginning, I was an East Girl: Clapton, Shacklewell Lane, De Beauvoir, a quick stop in Islington, then Hackney Wick. Strolling alongside the canal was my morning routine, as well as long walks down Victoria Park Road; warehouse gigs, DJ sets, and parties on thursdays. Then I moved to Bermondsey, to the Tower Bridge Moorings to be exact, and became part of an SE community of boat-loving people. Strolling alongside the Thames towards Tate Modern became my new routine, and Sunday pints at The Mayflower. My latest, current home is further down the Thames, in the land direction. When asked where I live, I say: Peckham. “Whereabouts in Peckham?” they ask. “Just across from Nola,” I answer to the coffee lovers, “4 minutes walk from Jumbi,” I respond to music aficionados. “Let’s do an SE excursion,” some suggest. This Arbitrary Guide to Peckham is for them, for those who want to know my Peckham, vegan way.

Welcome to my neighbourhood.

From SE15 with love,

Hazal

If you’re just joining us, here’s a link to our previous issues. Send me your questions about veganism at [email protected] so I can research, dig deeper, and come up with some mind-opening thoughts.

An Arbitrary Guide to Peckham

Coffee or Breakfast?

It’s earlyish in the morning, and you can already spot fast walkers rushing towards Peckham Rye to catch their trains. But not before grabbing a takeaway coffee and brekkie muffin from Rons. It opens at 8 a.m. and is usually pretty packed from then on. Everything you see at the counter is vegan, from chocolate chip cookies to a sourdough baguette with miso and ginger tofu, lime-coriander slaw, sriracha mayo, and orange-chili cucumber. But securing a spot is difficult due to high demand.

If you’re in need of a different kind of scenery, where you can sit down and open your laptop, publication, or sketchbook, then you’re at Nola, ordering a kimchi toastie and oat latte.

For late breakfast lovers, or those who like to enjoy some condiments in between carb slices, Rye Lane Bagel has plenty of options. One of my favourites is hummus, ’nduja, and cream cheese. There's another one I still need to try, with pastrami, cheese, pickles, and mustard.

Where To Lunch?

Mr Bao is a formidable lunch spot for a couple of reasons. First of all, of course, as the menu suggests: the bao. They have two vegan choices: Crispy Tofu with a sticky soy glaze, served with vegan mayo, pickled ginger, red cabbage slaw, chives; and Teriyaki Shiitake Mushroom with pickled red onions and miso mayo. Both are delicious and satisfy the appatite. But my primary reason for going to Mr Bao, especially for lunch, is to get a table facing the street and watch the people of Peckham pass by. Also, have I mentioned the sesame yuzu salad?

I first entered Persepolis in search of some spices: black cumin, caraway, chervil. It was then that I encountered the mezze plates being served to tables, set for a quick lunch or long dinner. The selection varies every day, as they make about 536 different types of salad and at least 26 types of hummus. The flatbreads, like Fattet, a decadency with spinach, chickpeas, and a rich tahini sauce are impossible to resist.

To me, En Root is the shop just around the corner where I occasionally grab takeaway and mostly sit down any time of day, except Mondays, when they’re closed. But in reality, they have two other locations: the original in Clapham and one more, inside the Brixton Ritzy Cinema, where locals think and thank En Root for being their go-to restaurant. In this plant based Indian fusion cuisine, I’ve had the privilege of tasting one of the most eccentric falafels in the form of a Shawarma Kebab Wrap, as well as some classics with a twist, such as Pani Puri, Vegetable Samosa with mango chutney and Masala Dosa sprinkled with their Raja Bonet Fyah Fyah Sauce. If you're new to En Root, The Root Platter with golden rice, chaana dhal, and saag aloo is a great introduction.

Afternoon Falafel Cravings 

Yemanes was featured in Vittles, and that's how I first read about them. It was said to be one of London’s must-have falafels. In a city where almost every High Street has at least one tasty falafel spot, what makes Yemanes stand out to Eastern, Northern, Southern, and Western Londoners? I got my answer while waiting for my wrap to be wrapped. The dough was prepared right before my eyes, fresh, and a couple of minutes later, I was called to the counter to choose from a selection of dips: sundried tomato kidney beans, hummus, beetroot, spinach, and aubergine. I just said, "All, please." Now I know why Yemanes is the talk of Vittles.

Work & Pint

We live in a city where most coffee shops close around 4 p.m., some even earlier. Those who like to work in the afternoon without a rolling contract at a co-working space are left to figure out where to go. The criteria are simple: quietness, a corner to sit for a while without being asked to leave due to a reservation or closure. That’s all. We don’t even need the internet, as it can be shared from phone. To me, that place has, from the beginning of my London days, been pubs. And since moving to Peckham,The Old Nun’s Head, especially. In contrast to nights when you’re searching for a place just to stand sometimes due to its popularity, during the day, it’s my bureau. It opens at noon, and I even spot some like-minded locals, sitting in front of their screens with a pint in hand.

A Bite of Mediterranean

Naïfs had been on my list for at least two years, but our encounter took a little time because I needed to gather a couple of friends who were curious about the vast land of plants and also prepared for a night around Peckham, including Camberwell wine shops.

Prior to dinner, the evening started with a bottle of Etna wine at Veraison, shared between the three of us, followed by a glass of Westwell, Kent Pinot Noir at Cellar Next Door, which is apparently a very à la mode addition to England's wine scenery. I’m no connoisseur, and thankfully had a friend who not only chose for us but also gave a private tutorial on the kinds of grapes we should select in those "I don’t know anything about wine" kind of market emergency situations, especially when invited to dinners. The apéro ended at The Camberwell Arms with a French Negroni, a little fruity for my taste buds.

Finally, it was 8:30, and we entered through the doors of Naïfs. At first, the sight of the kitchen, where pumpkins roast and almond ricotta blends, greeted us. Even at the entrance, you feel the warmth. I’m not sure if it’s the pantone of lighting scheme, people talking in low voices, or the décor that makes me remember the one-of-a-kind restaurants of Corsica, or literally the food cooking on stoves, but I can feel a gentle zephyr on my skin while walking to the table. I could almost hear the Mediterranean waves in the background. At Naïfs, the set menu is crafted with seasonal plants and meant to be shared. The choices are yours in three major moments: Starter, which we went for lentil pâté with fig jam, accompanied by TOAD bakery bread. The wine, of course, which in our case was Entras Vinyes, Funambul Cava, and then dessert. Since it was our first time, we went all the way and ordered both Summer Time Sadness and Naïfs Cocoa Cake, with white ganache and passion fruit.

To me, from the first moment I stepped in and was welcomed by the chefs cooking ambrosial dishes, to the time I had a bite of fried cauliflower, to when roast pumpkin with green pea, king oysters, and radicchio took center stage, the experience was stellar. It’s almost like you’re at a chef’s table, yet it feels like the kitchen at your gran’s being pampered with food. I'll be back in spring, or when the sun-kiss is missing from my skin.

Cultura Mexicana

As mentioned in a previous article, Mexican tacos, burritos, tamales, conchas, tamarind, Mezcal, and hot sauces were once missing from London's multicultural epicurean scene. However, I can enthusiastically observe that they are now becoming abundant, with restaurants, market stalls, shops dedicated to Mexican cuisine, and pub pop-ups emerging across the city. In Peckham, especially, I can speak about four places I've tried, loved, and become a weekly regular at.

Just across from my flat, TACA is my go-to place when I crave tacos. They offer three options: beans, shroom quesetaco, and grilled avocado. I always enjoy them with a Pacifico or Modelo lager.

Whenever an outsider visits Peckham, I take them to Taquiza first for the atmosphere: friendly, cozy, and with no reservation needed. Just wait about 10 minutes tops, and you'll be accompanied to a table. Their ever-changing, seasonally crafted menu currently features Suegra’s Refried Black Beans; Heirloom Tomato Ensalada with avocado, salsa macha, crispy tortillas, and Vegan Slow Cooked Brisket with salsa habanero.

Guacamoles makes one vegan thing and one vegan taco thing only. It’s called The Vegan, and the ingredients change based on the chef’s desire. However, the tang, the zing, and the hot tomato salsas remain consistent.

Mexican Mama is a grocery shop where you can explore Mexican culture through food. Sauces, chilies, sweets, and snacks line the shelves in an orderly manner that soothes my OCD. You can also taste, buy, and learn about various Mezcals and hot sauces. For a taste of pre-prepared Mexican flavor, try the Vegan Tamales.

Out for a Drink or Couple

Closer to Nunhead, El Vermut is ideal for negroni enthusiasts as well as first, tenth, or hundredth dates. I personally enjoy finding a stool at the bar and chatting with the bartenders about negroni when they have a minute.

Jumbi, designed by Bradley Zero, is “a Hi-Fi Music Bar & Restaurant in the heart of Peckham celebrating the sounds and flavours of the African-Caribbean diaspora” as they identify. It’s just four minutes’ walk from my flat, and I like Jumbi on weekdays as a place to have a Picante and occasionally be an active dancing participant at their warehouse parties. Every Tuesday, Orii Community takes the stage; a London-based collective of musicians and artists who come together to create and enjoy music, jam-session style.

Opened by the geniuses behind Corsica Studios, The Carpet Shop is the place to groove. As my talented DJ friends approve, their programming is top-notch, and you’ll likely be listening to and watching some of London’s current and upcoming performers.

Stuart Glen and Eugene Wild opened The Cause in Tottenham Hale in 2018 with a community-focused philosophy. Although the venue itself has since moved to Docland, All My Friends (Hackney Wick), The Marquee Moon (Stokey), and The Greyhound (Peckham) are all neighborhood spaces created with the same ethos.

Must come back for

• A sunny day dynamic flow at The Yogarise.

• Glancing over books and art at South London Gallery. Also, be sure to check their events; they might be hosting one of their supper clubs, such as the one with Sisterwoman on January 31, or book lunch for Strange Beach by Oluwaseun Olayiwola on February 7.

• Exhibitions, opening parties, book reading clubs, drink & draw gatherings, comedy nights, artist talks at the art-café Peckham Pelican

• A late evening, before the night out, Queen Vegan slice at the Voodoo Ray’s, you never know, might bump into a last minute party.

• Stopping by Etc.Store, the extension of The Completist, a well-known paper goods and stationery brand. Here, founders Jana and Marko support and promote a culture of independent designers and makers, with a focus on the story and craftsmanship behind each piece.

• In summer: Rooftop Film Club atop the Copeland Building and open-air exhibitions with sunsets at Bold Tendencies.

• Peckhamplex, where every screening is £5.99 and they offer, quite honestly, a contemporary and indie selection, as well as the latest movies at a more affordable price compared to other cinemas.

• From Wednesday to Sunday, from 12:00 a.m., the pea sandwich at Café Mondo.